I was wondering whats the best media to use like active carbor vs ammonia chips vs Nitra-Zorb and so on?(for my magnum 350)

Why am I asking this is because I used my master api test kit and my 55gal which is over stocked is all good its is at o ammonia, .25 nitrite and 0 nitrate with the ph of 7.5 and its been stable for the past week or so, but my new tank which is 100gal is at 7.8ph, 4-6 ammonia, 1-2 nitrite and 0 nitrate.

At 0.25 ppm, the 55 gallon has a nitrite level that could be toxic to more sensitive fish; nitrite can be toxic at as low of a concentration as 0.1 ppm and you are well above that. Considering you have livebearers in there, I'm wondering if yer reading isn't a little off. Do ya have the nitrite and nitrate readings reversed? That would make a little more sense. You might want to check it again. Regardless, I'd suggest a 25% water change and using the Nitrasorb to help keep the last bit of nitrite down.

The 100 gallon really concerns me. Ammonia is potentially lethal at 1 ppm, and you are 4-6 times that. The nitrite concentration is also well above lethal doses. At that pH and with the age of your set-up I doubt you have any build up of ammonium ions, so a large water change should not create a massive release of ammonia due to a pH increase. Since you have fish in there, and big messy fish to boot, I'm suggesting a 50% water change daily until those readings are consistently zero. Adding Nitrasorb at this stage, with those readings, would definitely be helpful. In fact, it is probably necessary to ensure the well-being of your fish.

It appears that the tank is still in the early stages of cycling based on the numbers you're giving and you can expect these numbers to stay high for a fairly lengthy time. You may also want to consider a live supplement of nitrifying bacteria, such as Nutrafin Cycle. I've used it off and on with mixed results, but it won't hurt to increase the population of nitrifying bacteria in that tank.

I believe Nitrasorb absorbs ammonia and nitrites. Activated carbon will NOT remove a significant amount of either substance; it is best at removing organic substances, heavy metals, substances such as dyes and medications, and chlorine/chloramine (though not fast enough to preclude the use of a dechlorinator when doing a water change). In this circumstance, you are far better off using Nitrasorb or other product specifically for removing nitrogen wastes than activated carbon.

WYite

It appears from your readings that probably neither tank is fully cycled at this point.

Other than active carbon what would you guys put in? Like the best filtration media

You have to get the water in line first....what are you using now for media? Have you started doing water changes....what are your readings today? For the well being of those fish you shouldn't be concerned with more filter media right now you should be doing water changes, feeding less and keeping a tight eye on that tank for any signs of stress.

Every other day I do a 10%water(10gal) change and I also add bacteria suppliment and conditioner. My readings are some what the same but a little lower on the ammonia. I only feed them once a day now. And before I sleep I sit and watch the tank for about a good 1 1/2hr. And they seem to be doing good. But one problem. Everyone is doing well but Junior(My bigger oscar) is swimming well from side to side and top to bottom but isnt eatting much than before and yesterday he ate the food and spat it back out. Is this good or bad?

The Oscar is showing interest in food at least, that is good. On the other hand not eating is a clear sign of stress...which in this case I would conclude that it is because of water quality. The results of your tests not good for the health of the fish. I would up the water changes to 25% daily until the ammonia and nitrite levels are in a much safer zone.

What kind of water conditioner are you using? I would consider getting a bottle of prime as well as a bottle of amo-lock. Both are made by seachems I believe. The ammo lock will at least convert the ammonia to a non toxic form. The prime will help with neutralizing nitrite and ammonia as well as nitrate. Continue the water changes but do larger changes every other day, make sure the water is close to the same temp (within 2-3 degrees) and keep using your water conditioner.

Back to your question earlier now...you were asking what to put in your filter....I would fill it with ammo chips and nitrazorb for now. After you get water in order you can fill it with as many sponges as possible maybe some ceramic cylindars. I am one who likes to stuff my filters with bio-media all the way through along with some fine floss for polishing. I don't mess with carbon, peat or ammonia type medias but my tanks are established and thats what I know and like. Really you have to find what you like and what works for you.

I was wondering for nita zorb do I have to have in in the filter where water passes through or can I just through it in my sump or even put it in the sump where the drip plate is?

You don't really have to have it at all. Once you get the beneficial bacteria established they will convert the ammonia and nitrite for you. I'd be interested to know if that stuff actually works or if it is just another of many aquarium product sales gimmicks.

Oh...If you do still plan to use it you should put it in the filter. Are you not using your sump as a filter?

I was thinking that too but did some looking around and people said it works. Couple people had it go from 60m to 20mm

What went from 60 to 20? Nitrate from 60ppm to 20ppm? That can be accomplished with a regular water change schedule. I find that most of these products just give people an excuse to not maintain a tank the way they should. In the end it doesn't usually benefit the fish.

That makes more senese

LOL just another question. I was wondering if I buy a box of the ammo carb thing the one with the ammo and active carbon and put them in a media bag and place them in the sump along with the bio balls and ceramics, will that help with the control over the spikes?

It might but it all depends how much water is gonna pass through the media itself. It is also going to depend on how much you buy. There is no "set" amount we can tell you to use...In a sump though you are going to need a hell of a lot more than if you were running it through a hang on back filter. A small amount in a large filter is going to have less contact with the media and not as much flow, so you will need a larger amount of media. Hope that makes sense.

Can you go look at my sump thread I hope what I said their gets answered. And also alot of water passes by because I have a return pump pushing 500gph and its in full use and its fully sumbmerg.